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Nailsworth

The Unlikely Pilgrimage of Harold Fry

Nailsworth, a small town in the Cotswolds, enters Harold Fry's pilgrimage as a place of comic relief and profound renewal. It is the setting for a telephone call that nearly ends the walk, and the place where Harold acquires a sleeping bag that becomes a symbol of his new life on the road. The town marks a turning point in the journey, where doubt is conquered and faith is restored.

The Telephone Call from Nailsworth

Harold's arrival in Nailsworth is announced through a telephone call he makes to St Bernadine's Hospice, a call that nearly becomes the end of his pilgrimage. Still laughing and unable to stop, Harold tells the voice on the other end of the line that he is in Nailsworth, having recently passed through Old Sodbury and Dunkirk. The absurdity of the English place names strikes him as funny, and the voice on the other end chuckles along with him. When asked when he might be expected, Harold looks at his watch and considers how quickly he could get a train and how many connections it would take. But then he pictures the space between himself and Queenie: the hills, the roads, the people, the sky. He places the image of himself among them, a little broken, a little tired, his back to the world, but determined not to let Queenie down. He answers that he will arrive in about three weeks, possibly more or less.

The Sleeping Bag and the Road to Stroud

After the phone call, Harold walks through the rest of the afternoon and into the dusk, the violent doubt he had felt before phoning Queenie gone. He reflects that he has escaped a great danger, and that there are miracles after all. Had he taken a train or a car, he would have been on his way believing he was right, but all the time it would have been wrong. He had nearly given up, but something else had happened and he kept going. The road leads from Nailsworth, past old mill buildings, and into the outskirts of Stroud. As it dips towards the centre, Harold passes a row of red-brick terraced houses, one with scaffolding and ladders and a skip of building rubble parked in the road. A shape catches his eye, and on stopping and pushing aside several pieces of plywood, he finds a sleeping bag. He gives it a shake to blow off the dust, and although it is ripped and the padding bulges like a soft white tongue from the hole, the tear is only superficial and the zip is still intact. Harold rolls the sleeping bag into a bundle and walks to the house. When the owner hears Harold's story, he calls his wife, and they also offer a fold-up chair, a Teasmade and a yoga mat, but Harold assures them the sleeping bag is more than enough. The wife warns him to be careful, as only the previous week the local petrol station was held up by four men with guns, but Harold promises he is vigilant, although he has come to trust in the basic goodness of people.

The Transformation of the Walk

The acquisition of the sleeping bag marks a decisive shift in Harold's pilgrimage. After the night in the barn, Harold continues to sleep outside, choosing dry places and being careful not to upset things. He washes in public lavatories, fountains and streams, and rinses his clothes where no one is watching. He thinks of that half-forgotten world lived in houses and streets and cars, where people ate three times a day, slept by night, and kept each other company. He is glad they are safe, and glad too that he is at last outside them. Harold takes the A-roads, B-roads, lanes and tracks, the compass quivering northwards as he follows. He goes by day or by night, as the mood takes him, mile after mile after mile. If the blisters are bad, he binds them with duct tape. He sleeps when the need for it comes, and then returns to his feet and walks again. He walks under the stars, and the tender light of the moon, when it hangs like an eyelash and the tree trunks shine like bones. It seems to Harold that he has been waiting all his life to walk. He no longer knows how far he has come, but only that he is going forward. The pale Cotswold stone becomes the red brick of Warwickshire, and the land flattens into middle England. Harold reaches his hand to his mouth to brush away a fly, and feels a beard growing in thick tufts. Queenie would live. He knows it.

Narrative Significance

Nailsworth functions as a threshold in Harold's journey, a place where the possibility of giving up is confronted and overcome. The telephone call from the town is a moment of crisis, where Harold's laughter masks a deep uncertainty about whether he can complete the walk. His decision to continue, placing himself among the hills, roads, people and sky he pictures, is a reaffirmation of his promise to Queenie. The sleeping bag he finds on the road from Nailsworth to Stroud becomes a practical and symbolic object, enabling his transition to sleeping rough and marking his full commitment to the pilgrimage. The town thus stands as a point of no return, after which Harold's transformation from an ordinary man posting a letter to a pilgrim walking to Berwick-upon-Tweed is complete. The comic absurdity of the place names, the kindness of the strangers who offer him a sleeping bag, and the renewed faith that follows the telephone call all combine to make Nailsworth a small but significant milestone in the geography of Harold's walk.